new strings

required supplies:

* guitar
* new strings
* cigarette
* beer
* guitar polish
* extra virgin olive oil
* wash cloth
* soft cloth
* bridge pins
* nut
* girlfriend (not pictured)

steps:

* do it

shave and a haircut

see, theres 2 things that are going on here:

number 1.) a big beard
number 2.) a long locks

number 1.
was a bad beard game for me and rae.
to help us be so sorry for how long we were apart!
i trimmed several times, but the point was, i had a huge beard.
and that meant that we hadnt been able to kiss in far too long.

number 2.
was because im cheap and lazy.
a 60 dollar haircut?
no thanks!
so, rae cut it for me!
usually i cut my own, but that means clippers - short short short.
but this time, i wanted to have it stay a bit long.
rae did GREAT!

transfer case skid - installation

the transfer case must be protected!
boulders or other off-road obstacles can damage the t-case.
a damaged or non functional t-case will immobilize a 4wd vehicle.

WHAT DOES A TRANSFER CASE DO?
the transfer case, or t-case, contains gears and selection forks.
it manages and distributes or 'transfers' power to the axles.
the t-case enables a 4wd vehicle to operate in 2wd.
this is accomplished by disengaging the front drive shaft.

WHERE IS THE TRANSFER-CASE?
the t-case is bolted inline directly behind the transmission.
it is supported through its attachment to the transmission.
the transmission rests on a lateral cross-member.
the t-case, however, hangs out behind the transmission.
it is vulnerable - directly in the apex of the break-over angle.
(click here to read what the break-over angle is)
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OLD VS NEW
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the new skid above, the stock skid below.
the new skid will mount in 11 places!
the stock skid only mounted in 3...

the new skid will be very secure with all this mounting hardware!
* 3 self-tapping bolts on the front of the trans member.
* 2 hex head bolts through the bottom of the trans member.
* 6 bolts and nutcerts installed in the framerails, 3 per side.

i had a stock t-case skid installed on my jeep already.
it spans at an angle from the transmission cross-member to the frame.
note the t-case is not entirely protected by the stock skid.

here is the transmission cross-member with the stock t-case skid removed.
the transfer case is to the left of the cross-member.
the transmission pan can be seen to the right of the cross-member.

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PRE-INSTALLATION MOCK UP
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i jacked up the skid plate to mark for drilling.
its heavy, but after getting it balanced on the jack, it was a breeze..

..until i found that this exhaust clamp was in the way.
see how the exhaust clamp's threads contact the skid on the right?
this prevented me from jacking it up all the way for a flush mount.

the exhaust clamp caused a gap between the skid plate and the frame rail.
i couldnt jack it up far enough to mark the holes in the proper places.

i cut the exhaust clamp and got it to fit just right.

here is how i cut the exhaust clamp to make it fit.
the threaded ends of the clamp hang too low.

so i cut them off!

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DRILLING FRAME MOUNTS
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i lined everything up and marked centers for the frame holes.

drilling small pilot holes first makes centering bigger bits easier.

i used a step bit to quickly drill to the proper diameter.

a bit of flat black paint after drilling to prevent rust.

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FIRST IMPRESSIONS
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the skid is very well designed.
it follows the contour of the transmission cross-member perfectly.

the transfer case will be well protected!
the coverage is excellent from all angles.
note the cut-away for the catalytic converter.
note also the vertical lip to help deflect rocks.

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PREP, PRIME, & PAINT
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to prepare the surface i used some mild soap and water.
after cleaning i used a bit of brake cleaner as a solvent.
this ensured the surface was dry and free of oils.
i wiped everything down and let it fully dry.

prep.

prime.

paint.

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NUTCERT INSTALLATION
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nutserts are cylinders containing threads.
they have a crushable sleeve which pinches them in place.
they will be installed in the holes i drilled in the frame.
simple handtools can do the job just fine.

the holes in the frame are the same outside diameter as the nutsert.

a combination wrench is used to hold the mutsert steady during installation.

completed side with 3 installed nutserts in the framerail.

the nutserts create a place to thread bolts into the frame.

it is now possible to hang the skid for final drilling.
i used a piece of wood between the jack and the skid to protect the finish.

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DRILLING CROSS-MEMBER HOLES
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first i drilled pilot holes for the 3 self-tapping bolts.

3 bolts will hold the skid to the front of the transmission cross-member.

this was the hardest part of the whole installation.
drilling without much space!
these holes are for the vertical bolts through the cross-member.

my step-bit wouldnt work here.
i had to drill through two layers of the cross-member.
so i used several bits to enlarge the holes progressively.



the final two cross-member bolts are installed vertically.
they sandwich the cross-member and the skid together.

they are flush mounted to the bottom of the skid plate.
this prevents them from becoming rounded from wearing on the rocks.

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INSTALLATION COMPLETE
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all i had to do was tighten the bolts in the specified order.

transfer case skid

i won this skidplate from a raffle on NAXJA.

motorcycle trick

BMW S1000 RR. from Nasar Shakil on Vimeo.

cheaper but less effective

i could build a cherokee like this:



the parts would be much cheaper!

but it would be less effective at getting me around..

nutz!

i drilled too big of a hole for my nutzert..



the frame rail joins and thus overlaps in this mounting location for my skid plate.
i was using a step bit to drill holes for the nutzerts to mount the skid.
the steps weren't deep enough for the double layer of metal..

..to get through both layers of metal with the proper diameter, i had to drill into the outer layer a bit with the next larger diameter step, and now i can't get my nutzert to grip.

so, i'll try to track down a 5/8" OD nutzert with accompanying hardware.
i was being pretty careful - i dealt with this okay on the other side!!
not careful enough, i guess!

dos.. ...dos...

check out this sweet vid i found looking at jeeps on youtube.

workbench

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i made a NEW workbench.
i used the reception desktop i got from EA Chicago.
before this new bench, the desktop was in my bedroom.
i had been using it as my 'workbench' in there.
there were a few BIG problems with that:

a.)
the desktop was very unsteady.
it just sat unsecured atop a few cabinets.
it was sagging in the middle - unsupported.
i couldn't do REAL work there.

b.)
its dark in my bedroom.
theres no tunes, either!
not good for working.

i always want to do little projects..
..but i rarely used the crummy 'workbench' in my bedroom.

so..

i made a NEW workbench.
now its in a great location!
and it is very strong and sturdy.

this is how i did it in 50 steps.
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PART ONE - PLANNING + MATERIALS

0.)
i decided this empty space off the living room should be used.
"wouldn't it be great to have all my tools by my desk!?"


1.)
there is a great view and great natural lighting.


2.)
a nice place to make stuff, fix things, and think.
or take breaks from working to gaze at the mountains!


3.)
i temporarily mocked it up to see how the space felt filled.
i used closet doors and stacked cabinets to level the desktop.


4.)
took some measurements.


5.)
made some plans.


6.)
picked out some good wood.


7.)
all aboard.
get it?


8.)
plenty of room in the jeep for all of these 8-footers.
the cedar smelled great.


9.)
i have an eye and technique for good wood.
i picked out some straight and strong lumber.
my last job before EA was at a lumberyard.
i fell back on that particular expertise.
(glad to have developed it)



10.)
lumber laid in its new home.
3 - 2x4x8'
3 - 4x4x8'
1 - 1x4x8'


11.)
pretty excited about building this, having fun!

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PART TWO - LEGS

12.)
i used the lumber itself as a sawhorse for cutting.


13.)
the first of 4 legs to support the desktop is cut perfectly!


14.)
i measured on all 4 sides for each cut.


15.)
usually, i tend to wing measurements a bit.


16.)
here, it was critical that i make perfectly perpendicular cuts.


17.)
the legs must be flat on the floor and mount flush to the desktop.


18.)
they were each cut to match the height of the tool cabinet.


19.)
the last cut i made splintered a bit.


20.)
i used this file to even up the splinters.


21.)
it felt good to work with the hand saw.
my beard?


22.)
my four freshly cut legs aligned perfectly!


23.)
my cuts look like they were made at a mill!
the legs are all exactly the same length.
i am very proud of this.


24.)
i swept the cedar sawdust for the jeep - air freshener!


25.)
the legs stand alone in their future home.

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PART THREE - NOTCHING

26.)
the desktop didn't quite clear this corner by my computer.


27.)
i layed lumber down to notch and attach support rails.
2x4 rails would keep it from sagging along each side.
i temporarily used the cedar 4x4s under the desktop for support.


28.)
i aligned the desktop and 2x4 rails for measuring and fitment.


29.)
i marked the notch for removal.


30.)
a job for a jigsaw.


31.)
cut.


32.)
it.


33.)
out.

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PART FOUR - DESKTOP STRENGTHENING

34.)
the 2x4 support rail would lie under the length of the desktop.


35.)
it was too long, so i cut it to match the notch.


36.)
it lies just like this, only UNDER the desktop.


37.)
i pre-drilled through the desktop into the 2x4 support rail.
pre-drilling prevents splitting.


38.)
the first screw is in place!


39.)
i use square bits and screws, FYI.


40.)
i countersunk the retaining screws.
i have previously used this desktop for painting.


41.)
the desktop is now secured to its support rails!
they will provide lengthwise rigidity.

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PART FOUR - ASSEMBLY

42.)
my 'first look' - i like what i see!


43.)
i put my tool cabinets in place under the workbench.
i had built it with their heights in mind.
the legs are cut flush with the cabinets adding support.
note my repaired chair.


44.)
i built this frame for my bigger parts cabinet.


45.)
the frame fills a gap between the cabinet and the workbench.
it is very tight, permanently wedged in place.


46.)
i pre-drilled holes vertically and horizontally.
this provides multi-directional stability.
when screwed in place, the assembly is complete!


47.)
one problem though...
the 2x4 rail prevented my top drawers from opening!
i used my jig saw to notch the rail.


48.)
first i drilled a small pilot hole at the notch end
then increased its diameter with a bigger drill bit.


49.)
with holes drilled, i cut with the jig notch to notch.


50.)
sweet.





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